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Pure Bollocks Issue 22_041
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* H O W * T O . . . *
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GROW MARIJUANA!
How to grow Marijuana
courtesy of the Jolly Roger
DISCLAIMER: Like wow, man, this is a really heavy thing, right. Cos, like,
stuff's illegal in this police state, right. And you'll, like, get
some really brutal violence done to you by their fachist puppets if
they find out, right. Anyway, like, not all of us are so with it,
right. So like, it isn't what we all want, right. So, like, don't
worry right, cos, like, you don't like have to do any of this,
right. Etc., etc., ..... [This man is now a merchant banker.]
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of
the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope. The
flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is used by just about
everyone to get HIGH.
Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this "high,"
but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana resin is THC
(tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per cent THC (4 per cent
must be considered GOOD dope).
Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexice,
Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The marijuana sold in
the United States comes primarily from, yes, the Uniited States.
It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets in
America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the borders from
Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama, occasionally South
America, and occasinally, Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana
plant, which is scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped
together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the
name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)
Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat.
It should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States
are a direct reflection of the laws of supply and demand (and you thought that
high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a
short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of
marijuana up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices
seldom fall below last year's level.
Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and
next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about 20 - 75 per cent
during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably, a large
shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs
instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or
"successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your
own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the subject would make
you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it
will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North
American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise
above 75 degrees.
The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be
planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the
year.
Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the
years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its
natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun- tered
with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law
enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and
probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access
to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of
thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for
about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then
transplant. The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct
location. Fewer plants will come up with this method, but there is no shock of
transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it over a
couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per square yard of
soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen
fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about
one week.
The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and
stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some
water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true
around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system.
Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some
camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is
probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to
notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not
as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable
and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a
hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter
of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be
altered in several ways.
The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3
- 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males
when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart
with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or
outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang
aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help
keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point
is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be
virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled up, but green, meaty,
and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If
they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes.
The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE
SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2" deep.
Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as
sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in
the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five
sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before
planting.
When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the
roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in
the permanent soil.
If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light
(purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are
transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours befor sunset to
avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young
plants.
After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good
idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to
help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much
harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient conditions just
exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant.
Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They
will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie
them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE
RESIN!
If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy
sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of
soil for each plant.
The plants will need about 150 ml. of water per plant/per week. They will also
need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however, the fresh air should
contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the
light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours
of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or
no appreciable difference in the plant quality. Another idea is to interrupt
the night cycle with about one hour of light. This gives you more females.
The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum
foil to reflect the light.
The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts
per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube. The fluorescents are
the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an
average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They
may be mounted on a rack
and moved every few days as the plants grow.
The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially
for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female
plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look
like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster.
If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before
they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the
seeds.
After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will
begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some
nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next
to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their
honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC.
The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you
want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go
another month and pick her.
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by
constructing a drying box or drying room.
You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the
box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the
water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed
from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and
screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves
and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at
the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out
any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil." In
a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give
another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content
of plants:
You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You
should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours.
You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the
flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You
can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new
flower will form in a couple of weeks.
This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than
usual.
If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will
produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering also, it
may happen in as little as two weeks.
You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to get
and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs about
$35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled
water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to
die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants.
This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal
grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed.
The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and may be
poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of
CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment
down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding
generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this poisonous quality.
However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small
quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these
quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could recive
form smoaking a seed-treated plant.
It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to
attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the
leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling
stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-
looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as marijuana. Of
course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have
been known to produve so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over
the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see
what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing judgment -
soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose
soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.
cast.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer
with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.
Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add
tissue. any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food
containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a
bit of molydbenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION:
BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this
oft-asked inquiry is, yes!
Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates
directly to how much effort you are going to put into it. There are no instant,
supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed,
but there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!)
thich will enhance mediocre grass somewhat, and there are a couple of fairly
involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something
worth writing home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a bunch
of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a few days.
This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product, however,
this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday freezer ice, you
will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place for a
couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a
mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does
increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or
so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but if you just
spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-
from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed,
and you're packing your bags to leave town before the people arrive for
their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms,
etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing alchol to cover
everything.
Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE
GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and
strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol. When the
second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of
alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the
stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly combines it with the
grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. [Well,
that shows how fuckin' good you are at English then, doesn't it? -EGBSS!] It is
a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin. One takes about
one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed in the Marygin and
the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns the internal wheel, which
separates the grass from the debris (seeds, stems).
It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is easily
washable.
Marygin is available from:
P.O. Box 5827
Tuscon, Arizona 85703
$5.00
GRASS
Edmund Scientific Company
555 Edscorp Building
Barrington, New Jersy 08007
Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass grower.
They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting plants for a mere
$14.95.
Soil test kits for PH - $2.40
Al test - $9.95
Soil thermometer - $2.75
Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are probably
the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for $15.75.
Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75. And, they have a natural growth
regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which can change height, speed growth, and
maturity, promote blossoming, etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment
with Gibberellin...there's no fun like experimenting - $2.00
SUGGESTED READING
THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake Straight Arrow Publishing -
$3.50 625 Third Street San Francisco, California
FLASH P.O.Box 16098 San Fransicso, California 94116 Stocks a series of
pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. Includes the Mary Jane Superweed
series.
