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Silicon Times Report Issue 0016
=======================================
ST-REPORT #16 January 6, 1988
=======================================
(c)1988 Syndicate Publishing
=======================================
Editor
Ron Kovacs
Circulation Assistants
Susan Perry
Ken Kirchner
Technical Help
Mr. Goodprobe
________________________________________
ZMAG BBS (201) 968-8148 8/16 Bit Support
300 Baud 4am-9pm Ascii/VT-52/Atascii Support
1200 Baud 24 hours Technical Help
________________________________________
ST INDEX 16 Volume 2 Number 1
________________________________________
Reader Commentary................................................Jack H. Lee
FCC Update.................................................BBS Press Service
Star Trek Game Hints.....................................Captured from GEnie
Hard Disk History Lesson...............................Hard Disk Users Group
Probing Your ST................................................Mr. Goodprobe
A Final Word......................................................Ron Kovacs
_______________________________________
COMMENTARY
_______________________________________
by Jack H. Lee
Aren't you sick and tired of seeing advertisements in a computer magazine where
a company announces exciting new software, only to find out that there are
available for every computer other than Atari?
The software companies continually REFUSE to release any new software for
Atari. In the five years I have owned my 800, have seen to BIGGEST decline for
the Atari 8-bit so far. Most software nowadays come from the U.K. Every
software store I have seen either carry very little Atari software, or none at
all. Even Toys R' Us carries a very scarce supply. They were once a decent
store to purchase hardware and software. Jack Tramiel was supposed to have
pushed the chain to sell more Atari products, but that seemed to have no
effect.
I REALLY HATE that. Here, I have this excellent machine, and no one cares.
And now that I own a 130XE, I think it's a big shame that I have a machine with
little commercial software to support its capabilities. The companies are
treating us as if we were totally obsolete (like Timex Sinclairs). Why us?
I know piracy is a big problem, but why pick Atari? I have seen mega-piracy in
the Apple and Commodore communities, far more than Atari. Now, the
manufacturers claim in addition to piracy, they don't manufacture Atari
software because of products like Happy, Chipmunk, etc., that duplicate
copy-protected disks. How ironic. Those type of products already exist for
Commodores and Apples. In fact, if people claim that there are more Apples and
Commodores than Ataris, it is reasonable to assume that there are pirates
there. It is pathetic that they chose Atari as the scapegoat.
It's also ironic how the companies didn't publish software for Atari, because
it was a "game machine". And that was due to the fact that Atari was extremely
popular in the arcades and with their 2600 game machine. So, if Atari is a
game machine, why do they refuse to release games for it now, and release them
for the other computers (the so-called more "serious" machines)? That really
makes no sense to me at all. And now I hear that that the companies refer to
the Commodore 64 as the "classic game machine". Totally pathetic. I estimate
that the ratio of Commodore to Atari software is 30:1. And that's a good
guess, too. The Atari selection in the stores are SO small, that to fill in
the empty space, the stores put blank disks, printer paper, and miscellaneous
items on the same shelf! That doesn't do the Atari owner much good. Why don't
they bother to order the same amount of new software for Atari as they do for
the others? I rarely see anything new a lot of the stuff dates back to when I
got my 800. Maybe three or four fresh titles here and there. And that's about
it. Unless something is done about this, the Atari 8-bit line may become
extinct.
Piracy is what will be most likely to kill the Atari line. Usually, you'll
here companies say that they are not releasing Atari versions because of very
poor sales of their previous products. So it's obvious it's not because there
aren't too many Atari owners, or that most Atari owners don't own disk drives.
It's up to us Atari owners for the survival of our computer.
~~ REPLY ~~
What has been left unsaid by the above article is the story about the glut
of TRASH software foisted upon us by the same crummy software companies that
are doing all crying about ATARI! Well, let them take notice..Gents keep an
eye on FTL's Dungeon Master! It is gonna break every sales record you clods
ever thought you could establish!!! The message is loud and clear.." Quit
the crying and produce quality software, the Atari users are NOT the idiots
your demographic "studies" or your pea-brained sales managers have said they
are! It is quite evident that the software released for the 8 bit is partly
to blame for the "widespread Piracy"...how? easy! It's a pleasure to pirate
a crummy program to show as many folks out there how really bad it is...so
they dont get suckered into buying it because of the enticing promotions.
In short, take your accusations and stuff em! Release REAL software and see
REAL profit!!! You say you wont produce for us anymore? Who Cares! Take ALL
your MARBLES and run....when all the smoke clears, all the users (not just
Atari) will know just how fickle you are. For every software publisher that
thinks he is hurting us, let him be the first to pay attention to FTL sales
in 1988...we, the users pledge full and unerring support to this fine
company for it's outstanding efforts in producing a super quality product for
the "so-called" Atari pirates. hahahaha!! What fools are those who think we
will not spend for quality...just look at the hardware we use..The very very
BEST....ATARI!!!!!!
FTL [FASTER THAN LIGHT] support these folks!
totally tired of crybabys,
Ralph F. Mariano
________________________________________
FCC UPDATE
________________________________________
Copyright (C) 1987, by BBS PRESS SERVICE, INC.
PERMISSION TO REDISTRIBUTE THE FOLLOWING COPYRIGHTED EDITORIAL IS HEREBY
GRANTED. Reprinted from INFO-MAT MAGAZINE, a weekly news and information
service distributed through an international network of more than 170 bulletin
boards. Look for each weekly issue on YOUR local BPS AFFILIATE BBS. To find
your local affiliate, call 913-478-9239 (data) or 913-478-3157 (voice).
==================
THE EDITOR SPEAKS:
==================
-- With LETTERS TO THE EDITOR --
"More Trouble Brewing?" by Alan R. Bechtold
Last week I discussed a VERY important issue facing BBS SysOps: decisions by
telephone companies to charge business rates for telephone lines used for non-
profit hobby systems and the arbitrary criteria used to determine who should
pay those rates.
This week I'd like to bring up something potentially even more important. I
want to tell you about The Cyber Foundation OPUS-CBCS BBS. A couple of weeks
ago INFO-MAT affiliate Dave Gentry uploaded the log file of his logon to this
BBS to me. He felt there was something about the board that we should all be
concerned about. I think he was right to worry.
According to a text file describing the system, "The Cyber Foundation is a Non-
Profit Government Supported System run by The United States Instructional
Department."
"This system is a Test for the Government and FCC," the file reads, "to
determine if Bulletin Board Systems, Non-Paying information exchange systems,
should be charged for use."
A public message to one user on the system, from Cyber Foundation SysOp Chris
Regan, explains:
"'Government Supported' means, that the Government (US) has paid for (in part)
this system's use (Hardware, Telephone Line) and due to restrictions I can only
say it is in the Southbury/Middlebury Area."
"This is a test," continued Chris in the same message, "to see if Bulletin
Boards, their phone lines, and others, should be taxed or have a tariff placed
on the information."
Within the body of the same message, Chris also explained "I do not work for
the Government, but I was approached by them."
Sound interesting? There's more.
In a later public message, Chris Regan stated that "I personally disagree with
FCC officials who think the phone lines should be taxed, and have lobbied
against it."
"So far," Regan wrote, "the Test has only turned out positively for us. I do
feel, however, that there should be a license in order to operate the High
Speed modems, and/or all modem communications, very much like the Ham Radio
operators."
In the above-cited online message, Regan pointed out the guidelines he felt
should be involved in obtaining such a BBS license:
"1) Have a certain type of specific User base, IBM (type) calls IBM (type),
Commodore Calls Commodore, and so on. This would mean partitioning areas
(is this what the counties are supposed to do?) so all types would be
available to the public. And then 1 or 2 "general" systems where thy would
be able to discuss the aspects of communications.
"2) Must be filed within 30 days of System Opening, due to the fact that some
systems go up and down (pirate boards) and is just a "front" for some other
activity.
"3) That SysOp access will be given to the official at a random time to check
on the system status, and if it is legitimate."
So, now we have the U.S. Government running a BBS to determine if BBSs should
be charged for the information they distribute and the lines they use, and
whether they should be regulated in HOW their boards are operated and even as
to WHOM they offer access to their systems!
An interesting turn of events.
First, I must point out that BBSs and modem users are NOT "like ham operators."
Modems don't use the limited broadcast spectrum of frequencies. BBSs can't be
"heard" by everyone who turns on their modems.
They are, in fact, no different than PEOPLE talking to PEOPLE. In fact, they
ARE just people talking to people, THROUGH their computers!!! I see no more
reason for BBSs to be licensed and regulated than for people who call other
people on the telephone to be licensed and regulated.
I could be wrong, but this smells a LOT like research to see if our freedom of
speech can be tampered with. Either way, the board is there for your perusal
and comment. I suggest you call the Cyber Foundation BBS and let them know how
you feel. This is your chance to let the U.S. Government know what you think
should be done about THEIR perceived "modem problem!"
Call the Cyber Foundation BBS at 203-264-5463. Their Fido node number, if you
want to send NetMail, is 142/444.
Don't be discourteous! Just look around for yourself and leave comments as to
YOUR real feelings about what you have seen.
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_Still giving it away!!__________
STAR TREK GAME HINTS
________________________________________
author unknown
Star Trek: The Rebel Universe Hints & Help
Space: The Final Frontier.............
This file is in two sections: the first is general hints and help with Star
Trek: The Rebel Universe. The second section contains one of the many possible
solutions to the game.
Please DO NOT READ the second section if you don't want to know!!!!!!! The
author assumes no resposibiltiy for lost fun and/or broken dreams.
And now......Mr. Sulu, set course for Section I, Warp factor 4!
Section I: General Help Information
R.T.B.M.!!!!! (Read the blasted Manual!!) The manual that comes with the game
is really excellent. Simon & Schuster did an excellent job with the packaging
and documentation. So don't blame me if you didn't read it and you don't know
what Catastrophe Pods are! (This file is NOT intended to help anyone who didn't
BUY this game! I will not support the Pirates who are cutting off the ST's
lifeblood by STEALING software.)
All Tactical Items are NOT created equal! Or at least, some are more useful
than others. I find that immediately getting the Cernekov Crystal (a Russian
Inwention!), as outlined in the manual, is a wery good idea, Keptin!
Otherwise, you may go nowhere FAST! (Look up Cernekov Crystal under Tactical
Devices to see why.) A Hotshot Device and/or Chaff Emitter should be next,
followed by Klingon and Romulan Jammers and a Logic Emitter. A Solar Scan
Device is a nice extra, if you happen to find one.
Decide on your strategy! There are some eight or ten different ways to win
this game: Choose ONE as your plan and stick to it. If you've decided to try
blackmailing the Klingon Admiral, then do so; don't try to destroy the Mining
Complex in the middle.
This IS an adventure game; so standard adventure rules apply:
Take good notes, especially about what items are found where. Save the game
frequently. Very frequently. There is space for eight games on each Save Disk,
use all of them.
Experiment with different Landing Party members. Spock is often a good place
to start, but the Logical choice isn't always the best answer. Sometimes a
little down-home sense will do the trick. In general though, if Spock's
analysis says to use a Helix Gun, a Phaser will usually do the job. The Planet
Exploration Form (from the Manual) is a good way to organize things. I write
the star-jumps I took to reach a system in the notes area, which really helps
when trying to go back somewhere. Just knowing that a system is in a Local Zone
isn't enough....you need to know where you started in the Quarantine Zone and
then where you went in the Regional Zone. I've been to systems that it seems
can only be reached from one other system in one particular Regional Zone. So
rather than going crazy trying to retrace your path, write it down! (And don't
forget to click on Jim Kirk to freeze the game!)
Keep a seperate list of systems with Orbital Discontinua!
Fire Phasers sparingly. They need time to recharge, so try to pause a few
seconds between shots IF POSSIBLE! If you must use them rapid-fire, then know
that you'll get four shots if they were fully charged, then you must switch
over to Photon Torpedoes. I was destroyed several times by sitting there and
pounding the mouse button, wondering why my Phasers wouldn't fire.
ALWAYS listen to Scotty!!
Don't fight unless it's necessary! If you're sitting in one system, trying to
find your next destination on the Star-globe screen and you get attacked, set
course for any nearby system and set a low warp speed. Stop after three seconds
or so. You should be one or two light-years outside of your previous system,
and I've never seen the enemy follow outside a system. You should only fight if
you need something in that system.
Avoid distractions! Or, in the words of The Next Generation's Captain Picard,
"Shut off that damn noise!" When Kirk calls Battle Stations, stop on the Bridge
screen for a split second; just long enough to click on the red bar at the
bottom of the screen. This will shut off the annoying Whoop-whoop which the
game uses for a red alert klaxon. Then continue and click on Chekov and then
the targeting screen and blow those %$#@^%#$ ships to smithereens. Another fine
point of battle: Once Chekov says "Got 'im!", immediately click on the
targeting screen and line up your next target; don't wait for the first ship to
fade away. Also, I never find time during battle to have Spock analize an enemy
ship; their status doesn't matter if they're still shooting at you.
More about battle: The manual describes how to line up your target on the
targeting grid so that it's in front of you, etc. Forget it! Every time I try
rotating the grid and adjusting the angle, I get the daylights shot out of me!
Click on the targeting screen and then just click on the closest "T" to the
Enterprise. Rotating the grid IS a good way to find out if there are any more
foes attacking before they show up on the grid. If there are no enemy ships,
the grid will not rotate and you can secure from general quarters.
Section II: Specific Help and One Solution
WARNING!!! The following paragraphs contain some explicit solution information
for Star Trek: The Rebel Universe. Please DO NOT READ further if you don't
want to know!!
Specific Help
Whatever info I have on the following has been included, I apologize that I
haven't kept better notes myself, but there are Priorities.......
QZ=Quarantine Zone, RZ=Regional Zone, LZ=Local Zone
Klingon Jammer: Start at Hazion (18.44.75, QZ), set course for Vorkal
(20.55.73, LZ), then set course for Vukier (28.53.73, LZ). Set course for
Vukier V and beam down; Uhura will get you past the Force Field Generator, beam
up with the Jammer. (You may want to continue on to Lorzur (31.49.84, LZ) for
weapons and energy, and a Cernekov Crystal on Lorzur III if you don't have
one.) OR at Kornas III (80.67.57)
Romulan Jammer: Vuniex I (40.65.73). OR at Vormiol II (24.61.71)
Chaff Emitter: Vermiur (71.61.23), have Bones walks towards the Janitor Robot.
OR at Taziok I (54.44.17, QZ)
Solar Scan Device: Vernen (64.67.72, QZ) to Narkiek V (52.54.82, LZ)
Hot Shot Device: Xumiux III (43.11.45, LZ) OR at Vorrier I (28.31.25)
Solution Scenario: Destroy Dekian II
------------------------------------
Must Have:
a) 1 Tachyon Gun, available at Rariar III (75.74.39, RZ), bring Bones.
b) 1 Chaos Trigger, available at Karxen II (16.42.56,RZ); Energy & Repair Dock
also in that system.
Recommended:
a) Hot Shot Device
b) Chaff Emitter
c) Solar Scan Device
d) Cernekov Crystal
Procedure:
a) Get Enterprise to maximum Energy, Dilithium, Weapons and Structure.
b) Go to the center-most system, Dakiak (51.50.50, QZ)
c) Go to Danian (63.62.51, LZ). There is a Synapse Bomb on Danian I, explode
it.
d) Set course for Dekian, it'll be at the very top of the Local Zone Star-globe
from Danian, at (63.51.52). Head there at maximum warp. Prepare to be
attacked by MANY Klingon Ships.
e) Arriving at Dekian, set course for Dekian II at maximum impulse power. A
Solar Scan Device will tell you how many Klingon Ships will block your way.
f) Once in orbit, click on Kirk and then the Transporter box. Choose your
landing party, then go to ships Stores. Bring the Tachyon Gun and the Chaos
Trigger; it doesn't matter who has what. Return to the Transporter and SAVE
GAME. Energize!
g) On the surface, use the Tachyon gun on the Blast Door and the Chaos Trigger
on the Mining Control Console. Congratulations!!! Now.....about that plan
to Capture the Klingon Admiral...
______________________________________
Hard Disk History Part 1
______________________________________
From The Hard Disk User Group Newsletter
This article edited by: Chuck Leazott
Submitted by: R.P. Mulhearn
This very informative article comes to us via (and is reprinted from) the
Jackintosh Gazette all the way from AUSTRALIA! It's a historical file and
tells us a lot of things we didn't know, and some we did.
Some of the information is rather vague, so I've included numerous notes within
[]'s to help clarify some of them. In other places I've simply rewritten a
sentence or too. It's a nifty article. Enjoy.
The Hard Drives used by mainframes generally have multiple disk surfaces and
multiple read/write heads all working simultaneously. This allow for storage of
all the data lines from a mainframe memory at one time. Most such drives have
removable disk packs and elaborate air filters.
Microcomputers typically use a much simpler (and cheaper) system. Almost all
of these are "Winchester"-style fixed drives, from which the disk pack cannot
be removed. The Winchester name comes from the code name of an early project
to develop cheaper [more inexpensive] drives.
The differences are that, being a fixed disk, engineering tolerances are
slightly eased. Although there is a separate read/write head for each disk
[platter] surface, only one head is used at a time, and thus only one read/
write amplifier and associated electronics is required.
Also, it means as few as 2 or 4 disk surfaces [1 or 2 platters] can be
included, rather than the 16 or 32 surfaces [8 or 16 platters] of a mainframe
hard disk.
Some disadvantages of this are that data must be converted from parallel to
serial form before reaching the head for writing, and the reverse when reading.
This also means that a Winchester drive must run a lot slower than a mainframe
hard disk since data reaches it in a serial stream. The slowness, however, is
purely relative; it is still many times faster than a floppy disk drive, since
most hard drives rotate at 3600 RPM as compared to the typical [Atari 1050]
floppy speed of 288 RPM.
There are a large number of "standards" in the Winchester world, however, we
will consider only the most common of these. A complete Winchester system
consists of three conceptual blocks which are mostly separate, although they
can be built on a single board nowadays, and will increasingly be built in one
piece.
These are the Host Computer Adapter (HCA), the SASI or SCSI Drive Controller/
Interface and the actual Disk Drive/Interface. The physical size, capacity, and
to some extent, speed of the drive doesn't really make much difference to the
way things work.
[Now...a little technical data]. The HCA provides electrical and signal
interfaces between your computer and the SASI/SCSI bus. In the Atari 520/
1040ST, this consists of a Direct Memory Access (DMA) port, plus relatively few
control lines, which is built into the ST, proper.
A similar device is now built into [other] computers apart from transferring
data under the DMA, the HCA is only required to pass a software Command
Descriptor Block (CDB) to the drive controller, using a particular software
protocol. Although there is provision for eight (8) classes of CDB, numbered 0
through 7, only 3 affect normal disk operation.
Class 0 is Data, Non-Data and Status commands. Class 1 is disk copy commands.
Class 6 is disk parameter assign commands. Class 7 is for diagnostics. The rest
of the classes are reserved for future use. The command protocol is
sufficiently flexible to allow for the use of optical disks and other
intelligent peripherals in the future. For example, a possibility being
considered is that of connection of the Ozi Rabble computer [don't ask me] as
an intelligent household control computer.
Since the Drive Controller must respond to software commands, it follows that
it must be "intelligent", or consist of a complete microcomputer itself. It
also needs some sort of relatively standard hardware and software interface to
the Host Adaptor.
One of the earliest intelligent standards for the Micro world was the Shugart
Associates System Interface (SASI) [I bet you never thought we would tell you
what those letters meant, huh?]. SASI was devised by the Xerox-owned, but now
defunct, drive maker Shugart Associates around 1980. [See? HD's are really new
to the micro systems].
The question of which "standard" to use led to a division among members of the
American National Standards Institute committee (ANSI X3T9.2). The mainframe
and mini computer members of which, tended to favor the Intelligent Peripheral
Interface (IPI) based on a Sperry Univac design. The breakaway committee (ANSI
X3T9.2) favored the Small Computer Systems Interface(SCSI) [There's the other
one], which is essentially the same as SASI.
Hard disk drives have been decreasing in physical size and the interfaces to
the disk drive controller have also changed. The older 14 inch drives [These
are the removable disk packs containing many platters, and use an air blower/
filter system to keep the dust away from the platters.] tend to use Control
Data's Storage Module Drive (SMD) and MMD interfaces, while the 8 inch drives
mostly use the SA1000 interface.
With the arrival of the 5.25" and smaller [3.5"] hard disks, most makers
followed the Seagate ST506 or ST412 disk drive controller interfaces.
Interestingly, the ST506 is a spinoff of the Shugart Associates SA1000 8"
interface, except the data rate is increased from 4.34 Megabits p/sec to 5
Mbits/s. Many (but not all) ST506 disk drive controllers are able to handle the
SA1000-style drives, also.
One problem with the ST506 interface is that it calls for the drive data to be
supplied in Modified Frequency Modulated (MFM) form, somewhat similar to that
provided by a double density floppy drive. This was originally used because it
saved space on the drive electronics card, where space was at a premium.
[More Technotes For Technuts]. The data separator, which consists of a Phased
Locked Loop (PLL) with a large number of components, including fine-tuning
potentiometers, is left on the disk drive controller card, where there is room.
However, there are disadvantages to this approach as the system is susceptible
to noise induced errors. Mounting a data separator in the drive itself
eliminates this problem, as the drive then produces separate data and
synchronizing clock signals for the controller.
Several drive manufacturers have proposed a modified ST506. This is the
Enhanced Small Disk Interface (ESDI). Some advantages of the ESDI approach is
that it allows faster data rates up to 10 Mbits/s, since PLL can be tuned to
suit the specific drive rather than always set for 5 Mbits/s. This also makes
it possible to use Run Length Limited (RLL) encoding schemes. This can allow
much greater data densities, and thus higher capacities while still using the
same style of drive. [A perfect example is the Seagate ST225 and ST238. It's
the same drive, but using a different platter coating and controller gives you
30 MEG instead of 20 MEG].
///Next week another section Part 2///
________________________________________
PROBING YOUR ST
________________________________________
by Mr. Goodprobe
You light up my drive!!!
I don't know about you, but not only is my electric bill high enough, but I
hate to have things run when its a matter of me not using them, and that
precious electricity is going to waste. And the wear and tear on the system as
it just sits there not being used. There is a power indicator on your Goldstar
made SC1224 monitor, but it is tiny to say the least, and can easily be
overlooked.
I have obtained a small plastic bubble shaped like a "c" sitting on its side,
and glued it around the edges to my indicator, this acted like a magnifying
lens and now the light is visible from a much larger distance. But what about
those disk drives?
Now there you have no idea what the status of those are..till now! We will add
a power indicator LED so you will be able to see from a glance the on/off
status of your precious SF 314/354 disk drive.
Needed parts:
1. LED (color is not important, suit your tastes) Available from local parts
suppliers, hobby shops, or computer repair centers.
2. 1/4 watt resistor any value from 220 to 470 ohms will work fine. Ideally you
should use a 470 ohm 2 per cent unit.
Now on with the dirty work. Place the drive top down on a soft, clean surface.
You will see four screws on the outer edge of your drive, remove these and
place them in a small container so they will not decide to take a vacation
while you are not looking.
Take the top off, and place the rest of the drive in a safe spot. Take a good
look at the front of the drive and choose the spot you would like the LED to be
located, and choose the position that suits you best both for visibility and
out and out good looks.
Obtain a drill that is the same diameter as your LED and proceed to slowly
drill out a hole for it.
Lay the drive top aside, and place the remainder of the drive in front of you,
with the back of the drive facing you. You will notice 2 plugs that are in the
back of the drive mechanism itself, a large one, and a small one with 4
conductors. We will want pins 1 and 2 of this cable. On one version the wires
will be blue and white, and the other it will be read and white. It will be
best if you hook it up right the first time, but not too critical, as the worst
that can happen is the LED would go bad in an extreme situation, they are
pretty hardy little buggers! Take a piece of wire, a piece from 9 inches to a
foot would be fine, and solder one end to pin 1 of the plug at the rear of the
drive mechanism.
Take the resistor, cut the leads to about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long on each end.
Solder one end of this resistor to the anode lead of the LED. If you hold the
lead, with the legs facing you, you will notice that there is probably one side
of the LED which has a flat spot. If it does, this flat spot denotes that the
leg of the LED closest to the flat spot is the CATCHODE of the LED. If the LED
doesnt have a straight spot, the lead closest to the dead center of the
underside of the LED is the ANODE of the LED. Connect to the anode with the
free end of there resistor you previously soldered to the wire. Next, cut
another piece of wire the same length as the prior piece. Solder this wire to
pin 2 of the connector, and the other end to the other free lead of the LED.
All that remains is to judiciously glue the lead into the front cover, and
reassemble the drive. When you power it up,you should be greeted by a pleasing
warm glow when the drive is on. If not, check your connections, if this doesn't
work, try reversing your leads to the LED and see if it lights, but this
project is of the simpler variety and you should not really have any problems
with it.
REMEMBER: These mods will not increase the value of your drive but, in fact,
decrease it as most folks want the stuff "CHERRY" so........................
...................PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Keep those Atari's hummin'
Mr. Goodprobe
(on lend from)
Midtown TV
(216)633-0997
Atari 8/16 Repair/Sales
________________________________________
And the final word....
________________________________________
Since we are now publishing ST-Report on weekly basis, (For the time being),
the issues will be more compact in length. Holding information for two weeks
in the past kept the issues rather large. I hope you will find the smaller
issues just as interesting.
We return next Wednesday.
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ST-REPORT Issue #16 Volume 2 Number 1
(c)1988 Syndicate Publications
(c)1987 Probing Your ST
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