Piss Issue 31

eZine lover (@eZine)

Published in 

Piss

 · 5 years ago

  

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 
- P.I.S.S. Philez Number 31 = 
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-   Jamming Police Radar    = 
=			    - 
-     by AT2Screech 	    = 
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[You may notice that this is part of a .zip file.  Duh.  It contains a 
graphic for the frequencies the infrared uses.  He wrote a section 
that goes with it...and here goes.  -Def] 

And Now Jamming Police Radar 

NOTES: 1.    This is all theory.  No, really.  Honest.  I Know nothing 
about what I am talking about, I just sat down with my eyes closed and 
banged on the keyboard and this is what was on the screen when I looked 
up. 
2.  Yes, this is illegal. 
3.  I am not responsible for what happens to you if you try it. 
4.  The person you got this phile isn’t responsible either. 
5.  These read like refrigerator instructions, don’t they. 
	 
Police radars function off of three primary methods of operation, Laser, 
IR (Infra-Red,) and Microwave guns.  We’re going to concentrate on the 
latter two since there is nothing really you can do about the first one 
since it’s a serious pain in the ass to defeat.  The best piece of advice 
that I can offer before you get started experimenting is that you can 
outrun a car, but you’ll never outrun a radio.  Outrunning radios is an 
entirely different text.  Yes I realize the radar part of the text is 
sadly lacking in information at the moment. 

 
IR Speed Detection 

BASICS:  These come in two forms, the gun and forward/rearward hard 
mounted systems, both are EXTREMELY easy to defeat.  What they do is send 
a large burst of far infra-red energy and wait for the pulse to be 
reflected back and then read the Doppler shift between the sent and 
received pulses.  The difference is integrated internally and then passed 
to the display where whammo! Officer Bob now knows that you’re driving 85 
and probably should be either pulled over and arrested or pulled over and 
arrested.   

WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT: Since these things are looking for a specific 
frequency of IR all you have to do is flood the surrounding area with IR 
energy.  The detector circuitry is looking for a specific pulse in a 
specific timeframe with a very narrow set of characteristics, (either a 
sine or square wave, nS/mS duration pulse, the actual signal type/length 
is dependant on model and manufacturer,) so the idea here is to clutter 
the ever living hell out of the general area with IR energy of all sorts. 
 This is the equivalent of you standing in an empty room and playing 
Marco Polo with someone, and playing the same game at a Front Line 
Assembly concert.  Yes, you can hear all sorts of rather lovely 
industrial tunage but chances are you aren’t going to hear that little 
"Polo" you’re looking for.   

HOW TO DO IT: IR sources can be obtained from most scientific supply 
warehouses, some of them have some fairly severe power requirements so 
watch what you buy.  This is for the more power hungry sort, remember to 
build wisely and use slack in your designs. 

1.  Obtain IR source and documentation, it should at a minimum cover the 
Far and part of the Middle portion of the IR spectrum.  Obtain a copy of 
the EM spectrum from a science book. 
2.  Construct a power/isolation circuit tailored to you particular 
source.  This should accept the voltage from your alternator and 
boost/convert/obfuscate the voltage/amperage to a point where it is 
usable by whatever it is you’re using.  NOTE: Use LOW GAUGE, (thick, very 
thick,) wire for this, the best stuff is the kind used to wire high 
amperage stereo systems together. 
3.  Build a small temperature isolated encasement.  This can either be 
done with ceramic or with metal.  It should be vented via baffles, (or a 
high output fan for advanced folks,) on the sides and about three inches 
of the source should stick above the top rim.  The best kind are 
cylinders which shed heat more evenly than boxes and don’t have any sharp 
corners to concentrate heat at. 
4.  Obtain a IR transparent glass dome to place over the top of the 
exposed source, high temp stuff again.  Pyrex works nicely but be careful 
not to drive around with it on all day. 
5.  It should wind up looking like a bullet with the emitter dome at the 
top. 
6.  Mount on car, below line of sight from inside the car but facing 
forward.  These things can be mounted in whatever direction you are 
expecting to encounter cops, I personally would mount it on the front, 
statistically speaking. 
7.  Wire on/off switch to dashboard. 

WARNINGS: Some IR sources put out a shitload of heat, IR energy and use 
vast quantities of electricity.  They take anywhere from 2 seconds to 4 
minutes to warm up and start doing their job.  Avoid staring at them, 
(just don’t look at them period while operating,) and DO NOT touch them 
or you WILL burn the hell out of yourself.  Use is recommended in 
situations where you need to go and go fast for a short period of time, 
use a digital timer to keep track of how long this thing has been on.  
Operating this thing will also turn you into a giant IR target so running 
from cops with FLIR, (heat sensing,) systems on their helicopters is out 
of the question. 

RANGE: Limited to type of IR source.  Some military grade sources can 
pump out a 500 yard sphere of IR and require some high end engineering to 
get to work with a car’s electrical system.  You should figure out what 
you’re going to use it for and since IR guns have LIMITED range stick to 
about 150-200 feet. 

TESTING: Try it on an actual IR system if possible, if not try on one of 
the speed boxes they put out to tell you how fast you’re going.  You can 
identify an IR emitter by the fact that they have red or maroon glass on 
the front, (emitter end,) of them.  The most common faults you are going 
to run into are incorrect power supply or a dead source if you have been 
using it for a long time, read the information that came with your 
particular source for duty cycle, (maximum period of time on before it 
needs a break,) data. 

ALTERNATE POSSIBILITIES: "Acquire" a large spotlight from your local 
radio shack, (the cigarette lighter powered sort,) and an IR filter.  
This should be a large piece of red colored glass that you can get either 
through science supply warehouses, at a nearby military/civilian 
electronics warehouse, or through your local militia.  Mount glass to the 
front of the spotlight and you now have a line-of-sight type device that 
you can whip out and point at things.  Another method would be just to 
reconfigure a clear box used in the manipulation of street signals. 

FOR THE ADVANCED FOLKS: Use an oscilliscope and a IR detector and figure 
out if your locals are using pulse train IR guns.  I do not know for sure 
if these exist but I have heard rumors, if they are E-MAIL ME AND TELL ME 
ABOUT IT WITH AN ACCOMPANYING ANALYSIS.  If  this is true, well, you’re 
going to have to figure out how to emulate a pulse train.  Suggestion 
would be to use a spinning wheel with breaks in it to allow IR out at 
specified intervals.  I have yet to encounter such a system in use but if 
you do, I would like to hear about it. 

 
Microwave or "Radar" Detection 

BASICS: These work off of the same essential idea as IR guns with a 
couple of major differences.  First off, instead of just sending a 
vanilla pulse of energy out and looking at what comes back and the 
difference between the two, Radar guns send out modulated pulses.  The 
trick here is to get the modulation down such that you can emulate it, 
this takes a bit of doing but is not impossible.  Secondly, radar guns 
operate at the GHz range, (gigahertz,) which means that if you’re not 
careful with them you can wind up sterile or giving yourself RF, (radio 
frequency,) burns.  Anyone not familiar with RF burns READ THIS NOW, what 
happens is you cook yourself, (charcoal is the better word,) from the 
inside out, meaning you don’t know it’s happening until your skin melts.  
Yucky shit.  The more persistent folks may read on.  Most police radars 
run in the X, Ku, K, and Ka bands, (new designations for these bands if 
anyone cares are I, J, and K, copies of the revised government frequency 
designation chart ahould have been included in this phile with the text, 
yes this is public domain type information) for frequency people that’s 
between 8-40 GHz, most of them falling in the Ku and Ka bands.  The radar 
gun sends out a modulated square wave signal that bounces off the target 
and has it’s wavelength compressed or decompressed by the relative 
velocity and direction of travel of the object being clocked, (again, 
Doppler rears it’s ugly head.)  Now I could get into a discussion on 
Pulse Width and Pulse Repetition Time and their relation to radar systems 
but I think I’d wind up putting most everyone to sleep so I’ll just skip 
to the good stuff.  

WHAT YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT:  Again, the idea is to overwhelm the receiver 
with erroneous input, this is accomplished by constructing, (or borrowing 
from an appliance,) a small microwave resonating cavity or microwave 
oscillator.  This thing will not only need to be tunable but cover a 
fairly wide section of the EM, (electromagnetic,) spectrum in order to 
jam the hell out of any radar system, (see the attached diagram most 
police radar falls into the X, Ka, and Ku bands,)  you come across.  This 
is the VERY illegal part, the FCC says that you cannot, without license 
to do so, possess, design or sell any equipment designed to transmit RF 
energy more than 500 feet.  Well, that’s about damn right because how 
often have you gone bezerk after your radar detector went off and found a 
cop sitting right there.  Almost the every time right?  Exactly, that’s 
the true beauty here, you aren’t really violating any laws and you can 
semi-legally, (don’t quote me on that,) build and operate one of these 
without endless legal hassle. 

HOW TO DO IT: This is not as easy as I make it look here, you are going 
to have to do some SERIOUS investigation into radar theory to get this 
down. 
1. First you are going to need to find out what kind of radar the local 
LEO, (law enforcement officer,) types are using.  Do this by driving 
about in a car with a radar detector through all the native speed traps 
you can find.  The more the better. 
2. Construct a small microwave oscillator.  I am currently authoring a 
text on resonant cavities for the beginner so if you are still interested 
drop me a line and I can provide this information for you.  The best 
start is to obtain either the magnetron from a microwave oven and 
reverse-engineer it or to get what is called a "Gunn" diode.  These 
things produce microwave RF and can be coupled to a tuned cavity to spit 
out GHz RF without a whole lot of trouble. 
3. Mount behind plastic grill of vehicle.  THIS IS IMPORTANT!  PLASTIC 
ONLY!  Mounting behind a metal grill will scatter 99% of the RF into your 
engine compartment and do you absolutely no good at all.  If you’re 
running a more powerful resonant cavity then you may even run the risk of 
killing your engine’s electrical system.  Well, if you do that then you 
won’t have to worry about speeding because YOU ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE 
FAST.  Nyuck. 
4. Wire accordingly. You can use Zener diodes wired to a radar detector 
to set this device off every time the detector goes bananas. 

WARNINGS:  Like I said before, if you are not careful you run a serious 
risk of hurting yourself or at the bare minimum irradiating Aunt Flo and 
Uncle Roy as you pull out of the driveway.  Well, maybe that’s a good 
idea on second thought.  Do these people need to reproduce?  Hmmm…food 
for thought. 

RANGE: Limited to line of sight. Period.   

TESTING: Tuning cavities and the like is made MUCH easier with RF meters 
and RF spectrometers.  These are some fairly heavy pieces of equipment to 
come across.  Your best bet is a upper level college or university with a 
solid electronics program.  Most radio stations should, (in theory,) have 
a meter or two laying around.  If they have the right frequency range is 
another matter.  Most of the common problems you are going to run into 
are the wrong frequency or harmonics increasing your standing wave ratio, 
(SWR,) to a point where you cannot radiate at all.  This text isn’t 
detailed enough to the point where I would recommend going out and doing 
this on your own, I am still working out the little bits as to how to 
construct one of these.  If you know enough and do a touch of research on 
your own you can probably figure it out from the ideas I have put forth.  
There will be an addition in the near future hopefully with schematics. 

ALTERNATE (AND THOROUGHLY RIDICULOUS) POSSIBILITIES: Since the fall of 
communism in good ‘ol Mother Russia, these people have been selling off 
all kinds of crazy shit at rock bottom prices, including countermeasures 
pods used on Soviet Air Force planes.  (There’s some crazed farmer who 
plows his fields with Russian T-72 tanks, sans turret, I think the guy 
lives in Colorado.) Here’s the plan: make contact with your neighborhood 
Russian mobster, tell him that: "I want to buy a avionics suite for the 
Su-35 including the ECM pods."  Better yet, tell him you want to buy the 
whole thing, (the entire plane,) and go ahead and card it, Ivan wont mind 
one damn bit that you didn’t pay him.  No really, they’re that desperate 
to unload the hardware.  Anyway, go ahead and get your plane, learn to 
fly it and when you get good just take that bad boy and strafe the hell 
out of any cop cars you see with that lovely little GSh-30 30mm cannon.  
Just a thought.  Of course if you managed to get the thing working you 
could blank out any radio communications within a pretty good area, and I 
mean everything including cable TV, cell fones, all sorts of crap.  
Enough of that. 

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PISS - People into Serious Shit 

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AT2Screech 

Contributors-  
Sameer Ketkar 

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(C) Copyright 1997 PISS Publications and also copyrighted by the author. 
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