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HOMEBREW Digest #2184
This file received at Hops.Stanford.EDU 1996/09/11 PDT
Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 11 September 1996 Number 2184
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Force Carbonating / Siphon starting ((George De Piro))
Re: Czech Pils schedule ((Bill Giffin))
copper tubing ("k. sprague")
Keg Carbonation (Tim.Watkins@analog.com)
My Balls are Always Bouncing (RUSt1d?)
Re: SPAMMING on HBD (John DeCarlo)
Acetaminophen and Alcohol (Mike Adams)
High temp fermentation nasties. Responses (Dave Mercer)
Re: old yeast ((Ed J. Basgall))
Re: Dreaded Starch Haze ((Mike Uchima))
RE: Lagering under pressure / alcohol effects ((George De Piro))
Starch haze (Hugh Graham)
Help, 10Gal Gott too small ("MacRae Kevin J")
Isnt it ironic / Hop NOSE! ((John (The Coyote) Wyllie))
Re: really good lauter system (Mike Demers)
bottling and starters (David MCconnell Higdon)
Irish Moss (again) ((Bob Wysong))
Mouse Lambic ((Bill Giffin))
Corning factory outlet? (Bruce Herron)
Bad beer options, hangovers, mis (eric fouch)
bad beer contest (m.bryson2@genie.com)
Re: aeration of sweet liquor (Mike Demers)
[none] (casty@klink.com.ph)
Scouring SS kegs-thread ("Val J. Lipscomb")
Chocolate Malt in a Dunkel? (Brad Anesi)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 07:50:14 -0700
Subject: Force Carbonating / Siphon starting
Hi!
In the last digest there is a nice discussion on how to force
carbonate a keg of beer by shaking it while applying CO2 pressure.
All the instructions in the post were good, but I would add one
precautionary measure: keep the CO2 tank above the level of the CO2
inlet on the keg.
This is to keep beer out of your gas line and regulator. Once the
beer is carbonated there will be no pressure difference between the
keg and the line, and beer can flow freely into it. Quite messy.
----------------------
While on the subject of gas, I'd like to share my siphon starting
technique. Many of you probably already know it, but for those who
don't:
If you have a CO2 canister it is easy to start a siphon. Simply
obtain one of those orange carboy caps, the kind with two openings.
Put the cap on the carboy. Put the racking cane through one hole.
Set your CO2 regulator for ~10 psi, turn on the gas and hold the gas
line against the other hole in the carboy cap. Sometimes you have to
press down on the cap a bit to obtain a good seal, but the beer will
start to flow quickly and cleanly. You can, of course, let go of the
gas line and turn off the CO2 once the liquid is flowing.
No need to suck on hoses, blow into your carboy, fill the hose with
pre-boiled water, etc. I even use this technique for obtaining
samples from my fermenters. It doesn't matter if the carboy cap
doesn't fit the fermenter perfectly; just press down on it and raise
the gas pressure a bit to get the beer flowing.
Have Fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 08:31:04 cst
Subject: Re: Czech Pils schedule
Good morning all,
John M. Posing's mash schedule appear to provide a mash that will be far
to thin to provide the proper characteristics for a Czech Pils.
A quart of cold to mash in with then raising the temperature to 95F with
150F water with give you a mash with 1.5 to 2 quart of water per pound of
grain and that is too mush considering he has another addition of hot
water with the first decoction.
Bill
------------------------------
From: "k. sprague" <homebrew@ix15.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 06:42:12 -0700
Subject: copper tubing
Just a quick question, all the information I have gathered suggests using
copper for boil kettle racking canes, wort chillers, fittings, etc.
However, in between beer batches, my copper wort chiller sits on the
shelving unit and oxidizes. Then, I put in the boil kettle for 15 mins to
sanitize and when I pull it out at the end, the chiller is bright, i.e. no
oxidization. Does this not contribute to off flavors in the beer?????
Anyone else noticed this???? I ask because my last two batches of beer
(since inception of my wort chiller) have tasted awfull. Anyone care to
comment? TIA.
K. Sprague
------------------------------
From: Tim.Watkins@analog.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 10:06:59 EDT
Subject: Keg Carbonation
I'm wondering if it is better to force carbonate in the keg, or prime
the keg and let it naturally carbonate?
I'm sure there's advantages and disadvantages to both, but I'm looking
for comments out there.
TIA,
Tim
------------------------------
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d@li.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:15:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: My Balls are Always Bouncing
I was looking through an old zymurgy ('90) and saw an ad for
a product called the "Batch Latch" that allow one to re-use
5 gallon party balls. I called the number but no luck. Can
anyone tell me if this type of product is available today?
Is there any advantage to adding a lager yeast to my ale
before cold conditioning it at 32F? Will it reduce any off
flavors produced from high fermentation temps? The ale will
be at 32F for about a month for the day I take the plunge.
I recently brewed a porter on a friday that had finished and
cleared by tuesday morning (1056 at 75F), so tuesday evening
I kegged it, co2 injected it, and tossed it in a freezer at
32f till the following saturday. That 8 day old ale was pretty
tasty and gone fast.
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow"
------------------------------
From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:21:31 -0400
Subject: Re: SPAMMING on HBD
I agree conceptually with the idea of limiting posts to subscribers,
and in fact contribute to other lists with that limit.
However, this is not necessarily straightforward. Lots of people get a
generic address (jdecarlo@erols.com or jdecarlo@aob.org or somesuch)
that they like to use when subscribing to lists. However, they may have
a *real* address that is subject to change (jdecarlo@mail5.erols.com or
somesuch) that their mailer uses. Those people have to learn special
tricks to post messages or they have to subscribe and unsubscribe many
times as the "real" address changes (one month it is @mail4.x.com and
the next @pop3.x.com). I know on one list I got the listmanager to
subscribe both my "real" and my "generic" (with the "real" one set to
not receive mail).
Anyway, this is long and sort-of off-topic, but it just points out that
there are quite a few people whose preferred reply-to email address is
different from the one their email program puts on as From.
John DeCarlo, jdecarlo@juno.com, Arlington, VA
------------------------------
From: Mike Adams <mike@telesph.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 08:37:16 -0400
Subject: Acetaminophen and Alcohol
George De Piro writes: (George_De_Piro@berlex.com)
>Also, people should be aware of a study published last year which suggested
that >acetaminophen, a.k.a. Tylenol, might cause liver damage in some
people, >especially when taken with alcohol.
Quite true. The tylenol I bought this morning carries a specific warning
about not taking tylenol if you've already consumed or plan to consume
alcoholic beverages.
------------------------------
From: Dave Mercer <dmercer@path.org>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 05:15:30 -0700
Subject: High temp fermentation nasties. Responses
Thanks to all who responded to my questions regarding bad alcoholic
off-flavors that I surmised resulted from fermenting 1056 at >=74F. I was
surprised by the number of people who said they had had exact same problem
(but then, I doubt there are too many unique brewing problems). Most
everybody agreed that high temp was the culprit, rather than infection, but
opinion was mixed 50-50 on whether the beer would get better with time. I
guess I'll just have to wait and find out. One private e-mail response said
that 1056 "has a very nasty flavor while the yeast is still in suspension.
Give the beer at least three weeks in the bottle
before sampling." I have never heard this before. In fact, I've always
thought it was supposed to be fairly neutral. But as I said in my original
post, I rarely use it, preferring 1098 as my general pale ale yeast. Comments?
------------------------------
From: edb@chem.psu.edu (Ed J. Basgall)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 11:55:52 -0400
Subject: Re: old yeast
<From: phust@unlinfo.unl.edu (patricia hust)
<Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 10:36:15 -0500 (CDT)
<Subject: Re: Old yeast
<I have not brewed since spring, too busy, kind of warm for fermenting,
<etc. I saved some yeast then by washing the dregs from the bottom and
<putting in sterile mason jars. The "yeast" has been in the
<refrigerator since March or April. How do I know if it is good? I
<assume I shold make a starter and if it begins action I am O.K.? Is
<there a way to know? Smell, taste? Thanx for any help.
<Jim Hust
Jim:
I have many bottles of old yeast dregs, some at least a year old in
my refrig. I make a starter and once it has started bubbling, I take a
drop of slurry and inspect it under a microscope. You can tell if
the yeast look healthy (ovoid and budding) or mutated (long and skinny).
Bacteria, which are smaller should be absent. If you see little rods
~1/10 the size of yeast or strings of what look like beaded chains (cocci)
you have a bacterial infection. Toss the starter.
BTW I use a sterile gauze pad and rubberband over the top of my starter
(1/2 gal jug with approx 12-16oz aerated liquid)
instead of an airlock because I want to make more yeast (aerobically)
and not beer (anaerobically), at this point. I check for activity by
swirling the contents, if it foams up nicely, they're off and running.
Good Luck
Cheers
Ed Basgall
SCUM
(State College Underground Maltsters)
------------------------------
From: uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 11:43:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Dreaded Starch Haze
sharrington@CCGATE.HAC.COM wrote:
> [snip]
> The grain bill was 10lbs of Klages, with a lb of crystal. Our water
> here in the South Bay is super hard, so I have an RO system. I use RO
> water for the mash. The pH of the water is pretty high (7-8 I am
> told).
>
> Upon hearing comments on the HBD that a protein rest was only
> necessary for lagers, I decided to shorten my brew and just do a mash
> then mash-out. I typically mash for an hour, but this day I had to go
> to Home Depot to get curtain rods, so the mash went on for about 2.5
> hours. I then did a mashout and brewed as normal. When I racked to
> the primary, it looked really cloudy, and has stayed that way all the
> way to bottling. I assume that this is the dreaded starch haze.
> [snip]
Is it possible you're actually seeing some sort of *protein* haze? I've seen
conflicting opinions on whether a protein rest is necessary with Klages malt
or not. I don't think the protein rest is a lager vs. ale thing -- I think it
depends on whether you're using lager or ale *malt*. Comments, anyone?
- -- Mike Uchima
- -- uchima@fncrd8.fnal.gov
------------------------------
From: George_De_Piro@berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:49:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Lagering under pressure / alcohol effects
Hello!
Tom asks about using a sealed keg as a secondary for lagering. It
does work fine, but you shouldn't put the beer in while it's still
fermenting.
The reason is that many lager yeasts, especially the German strains,
produce nasty smelling sulfurous gasses (like H2S) that need to be
allowed to leave the beer. During the long, slow fermentation in a
carboy these gasses have a chance to be purged by the CO2, leaving the
beer clean smelling. In my experience, this can take 2 or 3 weeks at
45F.
Only after the beer smells clean do I keg it for lagering. I force
carbonate as soon as it is kegged. In this way you don't have to
disturb the beer as much after the lagering period. I don't want to
stir up all the haze and yeast that have crashed to the bottom of the
keg after waiting so patiently!
You could force carbonate by just hooking the tank up to the keg
without agitation, but I prefer the speed of force carbonating with
agitation (I only have one CO2 tank, and many kegs).
If you keg the beer before the H2S has been purged, it may be possible
to purge it by venting the keg periodically, then repressurizing with
CO2 (note: that's CO2, not Co2, which would be diatomic cobalt; don't
want to give David B. a headache!). That seems like a pain, though.
---------------------
On that alcohol thread, I too have noticed that beer in a "party"
atmosphere seems to affect me more than one quietly enjoyed at home.
Sometimes I attribute this to a lack of food in my stomach, but that's
not always the case. I guess your state of mind does influence your
body tremendously, hence the practice of testing new drugs against
placebos.
Have Fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
------------------------------
From: Hugh Graham <hugh@lamar.ColoState.EDU>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 11:15:18 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Starch haze
Stephen Harrington writes about cloudy beer:
Did you recycle the first runnings until the wort ran clear? This
process helps to establish the grain bed filter. Different
lauter tuns and grain grinds mean that the amount of recycling required to
achieve clarity is difficult to predict, but up to a couple of gallons may
need to be recycled. This recycling can increase color, flavor and sugar
extraction too, so it's a Good Thing. But simple recycling can lead to
undesirable cooling of the mash. To overcome this, you could reheat each
pint or so of the runnings for ~30 secs on the stove before adding it
back to the mash, if you can be bothered.
This external heating can be used to achieve mash out temps too. Then
it's only a hop step and jump to RIMS type mashing...
BTW, it sounds like a little gypsum or Burton salts in your RO water might
help the mash proceed, or maybe just use 1 gallon or so of your hard local
water blended with the RO variety.
Hugh in Ft Collins CO. (population: ~100k, breweries: 9...)
------------------------------
From: "MacRae Kevin J" <kmacrae@UF2269P01.PeachtreeCityGA.NCR.COM>
Date: Wed Sep 11 14:02 EDT 1996
Subject: Help, 10Gal Gott too small
My current setup is a half barrel for boiling(no screen or spigot) and a
10Gallon Gott with a plastic screen.
I've brewed 5 and light 10 gallon batches (up to 16.5 lbs of grain) and
until now standard procedures worked fine. I decided to brew a 10 gallon
batch of Marzen/Octoberfest and the total mashable grain is 22lbs with an
additional 2lbs of crystal. With a quart of water at 133F for a 122F
protein rest then about another quart per lb of boiling water for a rest at
158F, I've already overshot the Gotts 10 gallon capacity, without counting
the volume of grain and any additional water for a mashout at 165F. I'd
really like to make a 10 gallon batch.
I know I can remove some grain and liquid heat it to the target temp, but
have no experience doing so. How much to pull, assuming I have to add
additional boiling water to hit the target temp of 158F, what is the desired
ratio of water to grain at 158F. I'm assuming I can't heat all my initial
6gal H2O and 22lb grain to 158F. If I can heat the whole mash to 158 should
I just do all my heating and rests in the keg and when its done gently
transfer to the Gott?
I'll eventually the upgrade the keg with a spigot and screen but it won't
be before this weekends brew session.
I'd appreciate helpful advice, experiences or pointers to info.
Sorry if this is basic kids stuff, has been gone over before, or just not
interesting.
Thanks for all the great info so far, I don't know what I'd do without the
HBD.
Kevin MacRae
------------------------------
From: ccoyote@sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 13:07:06 -0600
Subject: Isnt it ironic / Hop NOSE!
>From: Jeff Stampes <jeff.stampes@xilinx.com>
>Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 11:40:44 -0600
>Subject: Spam and Exclusivity/Barleywine Starter/CO2 levels
>
>If you'll remember, this spam came from someone at "juno.com".
>I received a snail mail brochure form this company last week
>as well. Who are they? They are a company providing FREE e-mail
>access to anyone with a computer and a modem. You ask for it,
>they give you the software to run, access #'s, and all the
>e-mail you can handle, with all costs being footed by their
>advertisers.
I actually signed up for a Juno account. Shees its free why not?
(ccoyote@juno.com if you wanna test it out, PC only, baaaaah!
I dont check it often lets just say...but go ahead, test it out)
Funny thing is- the free aspect of it is due to the fact that you are
inundated with ads while using their software. It takes up 10meg of hard
disk space for an e-mail only account. Hmmmm sez I. My Netscape 3.0gold
with java doesnt take up THAT much space! You are requested to give all
kinds of intimate details about yourself and your interests when you sign
on. I haven't checked back to see if I've gotten lots of spam/junk mail
from the advertisers yet. but I cant say much has hit my snailmailbox.
So do you really think that advertisers will be drawn to an account to be
subject to advertisement? maybe. sure we'll get more free-loaders, but
hell, hasn't every college campus in america done that to us already (hey-
you freshman in the back row, stop cowering, I'm not gonna throw any chalk
atchya).
Look at how many worthless "home-pages" there are. (this is my dorm room,
there's my poster of Cindy Crawford wearing Pepsi<tm> stuff, theres my
poster of Cindy NOT wearing Pepsi<tm> stuff...)
I say- welcome them aboard. Teach them how to behave (by example?) then
when that doesnt work use some of Domenicks tactics and inundate their
mailbox with all the pictures from alt.nasty.sex.with.animals :) Now if
they like it...then ...well... you're screwed, so to speak.
But FWIW I agree fully with the proposal that we limit posts to subscribed
users. Usenet works that way doesnt it? It works there doesnt it? :(
It would allow an element of control such that if contributors get
disruptive (nomakeeeeee) they can be booted. Lets just never have a public
vote about who should stay and who should go...thats total crap!
***
Since I hate to post posts that contain NO brewing related merit, here's my
quick save attempt:
While tiptoeing on the very top step of my rickety old wooden ladder (you
know, the step that (b4 all the paint wore off) says- "NOT A STEP") and
sticking my head out over/through the top of my hop pergola I was picking
handful after glorious handful of almost too ripe cascade (and I'm not even
halfway there!) I had a horrible sneezing fit. Yet there I am, teetering
on top, and sneezing and sneezing away, sun beating down, saying, "I gotta
pick em, gotta pick em...".
Whew- I tell you. It was a BAAAD allergic reaction. I've run into some
sniffles before when picking my hops, and have a history of allergies to
pollen, but this baby knocked me over....well not quite-luckily. Good
thing I built that pergola sturdy! I had to give up the pick-athon, and
run for an antihistamine and a box of tissues.
Well, next time I'm gonna wear a dust mask. Its getting to the point where
I might need to get one of those fancy schmancy space suits like Kirk wore
in the Tholean Web, or where Spock and co. got that infection that made em
all crazy- Sulu the swashbuckler,,,,oh yeah. Brewing again....
I wear surgical gloves (work well) long sleeves, a cap, glasses, now a
dust mask too. My neighbors are REALLY going to start to wonder!
Well, my question here is- has anyone else had any adverse reactions while
picking hops? I think I may have just been overwhelmed by the overpowering
(and wonderful) fresh hop aroma, ... and dust, and pollen, and aphids...
But I would seriously hope that I'm not developing some kind of allergy to
hops that might even (god forbid) translate to an allergy to hops IN beer.
I don't suppose it carries over the way people with reactions to sulphates
do??? I doubt it, just wondering if anyone out there has any insight.
Enough babbling for now. Sorry for wasted bandwidth (use the scroll Luke...).
Brew on good buddies!
/////////////////////////////////|||||||||\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
So how is SAT at 2:00 at the T-shirt shop sound for people, HBD GABF Gathering.
(as Jim C sed to me) I'll be the guy with the beard, and the
brewing-related T-shirt on. (Wow- its like looking in a Mirror! Like a
Hall of Mirrors...!)
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|||||||||///////////////////////////////////
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
/// John- The Cosmic Coyote -Wyllie\\\ ccoyote@sunrem.com
'As long as he's got 8 fingers and toes, he's ok by me!' H.J.S.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Mike Demers <mdemers@ctron.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 15:11:18 -0400
Subject: Re: really good lauter system
Rick ( Lambert@tencor.com) wrote:
> I am looking to construct a really good lauter system, uupgrading myself from
> the simple zapap holes in the bucket/false bottom with clamped hose deal. My
> question to you, o great collective of zymurgistic wizardry, your suggestions
> on either the evolution of my system, or something else wickedly efficient
and
> simple....
I would recommend you buy and EASYMASHER (tm JSP). This beautiful little gadget
has made my mashing experiences, well, easy. It will never clog and you never
have to worry about a silly false bottom floating up on you. You can stir the
mash as much as you like during the sparge and you only have to recirculate
a few ounces of runnings in order to reset the grain bed. Also, if
you boil in a pot with an EM installed, you don't have to use hop bags because
after chilling you can just drain the wort out of the pot with the hops acting
as filter bed (don't use pellets though). This method also has the advantage of
leaving behind the hot and cold break as well. It's the best system in my
opinion.
I would never use anything else.
Check it out at: http://dezines.com/@your.service/jsp/em.html
Mike D.
Not affiliated, just a happy customer.
------------------------------
From: David MCconnell Higdon <dhigdon@wam.umd.edu>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 15:20:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: bottling and starters
Just thought I would share some of my latest brewing techniques with
everyone.
The first would be a batch of wheat beer that I made (partial mash)
the came out flat after 4 weeks in the bottle. to carbonate it I
dissolved about
1/4 cup suger in a cup of water and opened up each bottle, took out about
a tsp or more and replaced it with the suger water. after 2 weeks the beer
was more carbonated than before and I tasted no contamination.
The second is a yeast starter I got from the bottom of Whitbread Pale ale
bottle. It took about 1 week for fermentation at about 78-80 degs it
tasted fine and it is fermenting a batch now at about 70 deg. The yeast
took
off in about 12 hours after i pitched it.
Now for my question. Has anyone ever used water filtered with a britta
filter? how did it turn out?
------------------------------
From: bob@ocs.com (Bob Wysong)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 15:26:25 EDT
Subject: Irish Moss (again)
Over the weekend I was brewed a batch of Pale Ale. Thinking I had 10 minutes
more to go with boiling, I threw in my re-hydrated Irish moss. It was then
I realized that I hadn't sanitized my CF chiller (I flush it with boiling
water and then steam sanitize). 45 min later, (after adding more water to make
up the loss in volume for the time boiling) I was ready to chill.
Except now my Irish moss had been boiling for 45 min instead of 10-15.
Question is: What difference does it make? Why do all of the reading sources
say to throw it in with 10 minutes to go? Why not the entire boil?
Just Curious.
- -Bob Wysong
------------------------------
From: bill-giffin@juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 13:16:48 cst
Subject: Mouse Lambic
It was truly wonderful. Waste not want not.
Remember there are a number of recipes for Cock (Roster) ale, where a
roster you know a male chicken was put into the mash. Why not a mouse??
Bill
------------------------------
From: Bruce Herron <herron@wadsworth.org>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 15:25:53 -0400
Subject: Corning factory outlet?
Hello all
Let me start by saying thanks to those that answered my last post
regerding false bottoms, especially to Dave Burley who has been cranking out
the replies to some of the less experienced brewers participating here, we
appreciate the time and advice.
My next question is about getting a couple more glass carboy's for a
reasonable price. I am going up into Bar Harbor Maine at the end of the
month for a conference and will be driving there from New York. Sometime ago
I heard from someone that there is a corning factory outlet in the south
part of Maine, maybe in Kittery? Anyway they also said that you can purchase
glass carboys there for $10 or so, does this sound at all accurate to anyone
out there.
__ __ Bruce Herron
/ \ / \ Developmental Genetics
( _""_ ) David Axelrod Institute
- o o - 120 New Scotland Ave.
\ / Albany, NY 12208
===\ /=== Phone (518) 474-3341
O FAX (518) 474-3181
------------------------------
From: eric fouch <S=eric_fouch%S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021+pefouch%Steelcase-Inc@mcimail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 14:38 EST
Subject: Bad beer options, hangovers, mis
Date: Wednesday, 11 September 1996 2:34pm ET
To: STC012.HONLY@STC010.SNADS
From: Eric.Fouch@STC001
Subject: Bad beer options, hangovers, mistakes
In-Reply-To: Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam, Baked Beans, Spam, and Spam
The Radical Brewer wants to know what to do with his bad, but drinkable beer.
The suggestion of combining it with more DME or LME at less than boiling temps
has merit. One thing comes to mind: You will lose alcohol content due to
heating. P'raps "dumping" the bad beer (BAD Beer! No biscuit!) into a
fermenter- that is, gently pouring, preferably under a CO2 pad- and adding
some metabisulfite to "pastuerize" it, then adding about 2 gallons of boiled,
unhopped new wort, repitch, and do the Dance of Submissivness to the beer
gods.Be sure to give the metabisulfite about 24 hours to dissipate before
adding new wort or yeast.
- ---
My understanding of hangovers, due to indepth field studies, is due to the
combination of dehydration, vasoconstriction of brain bound blood vessles,
and vitamin B depletion, all due to alcohol and the ketones and aldehydes
that are byproducts of fermentation and distillation (of liquors) processes.
In my experience, homebrew does NOT give me a hangover. I once quaffed copius
amounts of my Coffee House Porter (10%) and after a night of stumbling around,
giggling and sleeping in the dog house, I felt great the next day. Scary.
It also works (for me anyway, FTROYG) if before an evening of planned
overindulgence, like bowling night, to take a Tbs of brewers yeast, mix
it into a glass of Orange Juice, and chase it with a glass of IPA. The
next day you will be able to tell that you should have a hangover, but
it's just not manifesting. This is due to brewers yeast being an excellent
source of vitamin B. A couple pints of water at bedtime does also help.
- ---
What is SPAMMING?
Spamming is the now defunct sport of throwing a chunk of Spam (Tm.) through
a large fan and admiring the resultant patterns on a white washed wall.
The practice lost favor to the more popular contest of Barnyard Bingo (Tm.)
The spirit of spamming was revived when one of the developers of the modern
internet re-coined the phrase to mean splattering newsgroups with shotgunned
advertisments in hopes of stirring up interest in the product or subject
being "spammed".
I hope I've answered your question.
E-man
------------------------------
From: m.bryson2@genie.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 18:34:00 GMT
Subject: bad beer contest
Don't know if this is available where you are, but Red, White and Blue
could possibly be the worst beer ever; tastes like it's been filtered
through a large horse. It makes the mega-brews you mentioned taste like
champagne. Blech
Matthew Bryson
------------------------------
From: Mike Demers <mdemers@ctron.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:18:09 -0400
Subject: Re: aeration of sweet liquor
Peter T. (VanFunk@aol.com) wrote:
> Zymurgists-
> got a quick question for the honorable collective. I installed a JSP
> easymasher (I know, I know) in my Vollrath 10 gal kettle a couple of months
> ago, and thus far I am very happy with its extraction efficiency. However,
> that rackin' frackin' spigot gets me swearing at my mother every time I try
> to attach a piece of hose to it. The seal is such that I have to clamp it
> about 10 times to prevent it from sucking air into the sweet wort during the
> lauter.
(snip)
First off, you shouldn't swear at you mother, swear at Jack!! ;-)
Second, I have brewed probably 20 or so batches with an EM and
I too get that air sucking into the hose. I really don't think
it's anything to worry about, I let the air suck in all it wants
and I never have any off-flavors in my beer (at least not ones
that could be associated with HSA). I've always been of the opinion
that it really doesn't matter if the sweet liquor gets aerated during
the sparge because you boil off all of the oxygen anyway. I'm not sure
if this theory is correct or not, but like I said, I have no problems
with HSA as far as I can tell.
Another data point: When I brew over my buddy's house we let the sweet
liquor fall about 3 or 4 feet into the kettle. This certainly results
in pretty well aerated sweet liquor and again, no problems. I remember
the first time we did this I expressed concern that we were aerating the
sweet liquor but we really didn't have any way of preventing it so we
relaxed, didn't worry, and drank several homebrews. I was pleasanltly
surprised when the batch came out really well. I haven't given it a
second thought since.
Mike D.
------------------------------
From: casty@klink.com.ph
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 03:58:09 +0800
Subject: [none]
- ------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay@netxpress.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:40:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Scouring SS kegs-thread
I have always used green Scotch pads to clean the inside and outside,
for that matter, of my brewing kettle (a former SS keg). In my exper-
ience, the pads do come in several degrees of coarseness. I just looked
and the ones I use are marked "Tough Kitchen Cleaning".
The reason I started using them, knowing that they would scratch, is
that in "Brewing Lager Beer", in the section on Cleaning and Sterilizing,
Greg Noonan says, "Brew Kettles of Copper, Stainless Steel or Aluminum:
Articles of this construction are the only ones used in brewing upon
which an abrasive should be used. In fact, they benefit from its employ-
ment. The abrasives not only scour away calcified deposits but pitting
and etching of the kettle surface improves heat transfer and protein
coagulation during wort boiling." IMHO, if Noonan says it, it's good
enough for me. Cuchulain Libby, fellow San Antonian, please note the
reference to "calcified deposits", that applies strongly to our water.
All that said I emphatically agree with those against using abrasive
pads on plastics, fermenters, etc.
Brew On!
Val Lipscomb
------------------------------
From: Brad Anesi <BANESI@novell.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 17:20:39 -0600
Subject: Chocolate Malt in a Dunkel?
Mark Bayer wrote...
>...let me make a recommendation if any of you are looking to brew a
>dunkel (i'm taking this advice myself this year): use as little chocolate
>and crystal malts as you're comfortable with if you want to try and get
>the munich dark beer malt profile correct. i have a strong feeling that
>the chocolate needs to be eliminated from the recipe, and perhaps even
>the crystal cut back a bit.
Mark, your advice is correct - in fact, if brewed true to German style, a
dunkel should have NO chocolate malt used whatsoever. Of course, I
recently made a Chocolate Lager which has been regarded by many as
the finest beer I have ever created, and it had more chocolate malt than
most American Brown Ales!
I think I've created a new style - or should I just go the Pete's Wicked
approach and call my Lager an Ale?
Regards,
Brad
------------------------------
End of Homebrew Digest #2184
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